GLASS TYPES AND USES GLASS -
GLAZING: We do NOT sell
glass on the web because of the handling, packing
and breakage, But you can purchase that locally. Call a local frame shop
or a lumber yard.
Frame shops will have thinner, more expensive glass and better
for find art work.
NOT ALL ART REQUIRES GLAZING.
REGULAR GLASS. Picture
frame glass is thinner and a better quality than
lumber-yard type glass. If you are on a budget, single strength window
glass from the hardware
store will work.
NON-GLARE GLASS. Etched
so that when light strikes it, it does not throw back
the LIGHT rays, it scatters them.. It can be single etched or double
It defuses the image especially when multiple mats are used.
a coating to reject bad UV rays and prevent fading of the dye
in the prints. UV can be regular or non-glare. Should be used on fine
NON-GLARE UV GLASS. Has
UV coating to reject UV rays and also defuses
the return of the light rays. Can be distorting when multiple mats are
The further off the image the more distortion.
expensive, but great for quality art.
types but all have to be cleaned and cared for carefully.
No Windex. Plastic glazing will magnetize and collect lint, and easily
But great on items that will be moved around and especially on large art
to prevent breakage.
MAT BOARDS FOR PICTURE
The mat board around a print has a JOB and that JOB is to protect the
art work by separating the glass from the art
(paper or photography). If glass is laying directly on paper art or a
photo when the glass is subjected to temperature
changes it will sweat and it will sweat on the inside and damage the art
or cause the glass to stick to photographic art.
There are many types of mat boards;
Regular-standard wood pulp with a buffered acid neutralizer added. and
cotton ph neutral, white cores, metal, marble, suede,
leathers and more. Go with your budget. Even the regular wood pulp mats
are PH buffered and will outlive you.
Acid and museum quality are best for find art work because the value of
that art will benefit your children and their children.
NOTE: The photographic paper that is presently being used will stick to
glass very readily, especially High gloss.
so DO NOT PUT IT UNDER GLASS WITH THE GLASS TOUCHING THE PHOTO. You can
mount the photo and put it in the
frame with no glass or you can use a frame space to separate the art and
(Frame space can be your mat or it can be thin piece of wood or plastic
strips around the inside of the frame behind the
glass to separate the photo from the glass and photo should be mounted
to a hard surface board to do this)
STANDARD mat boards
are made with wood pulp fibers and have the natural occurring lignin
(which is acidic) and the pulp
is buffered with an alkaline (calcium carbonate) to neutralize the acid.
These mats will normally hold their neutrality for 50-100
ACID FREE MATS are made
from cotton fibers and do not have lignin and are ph neutral and are the
best for your art work,
but they generally run about twice the cost of the standard wood pulp
mats. With few exceptions these mats also have
calcium carbonate added to help them to hold their neutral ph. I might
mention that the new resin coated photography papers
are somewhat sensitive to the calcium carbonate, so in photography you
only have a couple of mats that are recommended
for that art form because they do not have calcium carbonate in them.
MOUNT. A lot of my customers use the terms Mat and Mount
interchangeably and this is not proper.
Mounting a print indicates that you have glued it down to the backing
board. This process is best done by someone who is
knowledgably about the procedure. Mouting helps to keep the art from
becoming wrinkled from humidity. I'm sure you have
seen a poster print in a frame and it's all "wavy" well that's from the
paper taking moisture from the air and it causes the
paper fibers to swell and thus producing the wrinkles. Mounting prevents
the buckling is most cases. It is possible under
really humid circumstances for the print and the backing board both to
buckle. Mounting a signed and numbered limited edition
is considered a "NO-NO", because it alters the issued condition
APPROPRIATE to the size and weight of the picture. If in doubt double
And when adding wire, go through the eye screw,
around the wire and back through the eye screw and then twist the rest
around the wire.
Be careful and don't prick your fingers. Blood on art work is
discouraged. You can tape the ends when you
finished twisting. See fig. You can also use strip plate hanger on the
back instead of the eye screws.
They come in 2 hole plate and 4 hole plate. Great for heavy things and
if you don't want to add the thickness of the
eye screw to the back.
INSTALLING ART INTO THE FRAME.
are many ways to secure the picture into the frame and I'm sure you will
come up with one that I will fail to mention.
Masking tape is not an authorized method of installation
1) Frame is shallow and
canvas is deep. Canvas will stick out the back and that is normal
and OK. You can secure the canvas into the frame several ways.
a) Use Offset plates. They are metal "Z" plates with a hole so you can
screw them to the frame. and they come in several
depths. 1/8, 3/8 and 1/2.
Punch hold in bars add eye schrew
put eye screw down thru other screw
nailness saw tooths
one of several sizes of offset "Z"
b} Use eye screws. Set the canvas into the frame and a with an ice pick
or nail punch a starter hole in the side of the stretcher
bar at the level the canvas drops into the frame. See fig 1. Put an eye
screw into the starter hole so that it lays flat on the back
of the picture frame.
Put another eye screw thru the center of the first eye screw fig 2.
until it holds down the assembly securely. Use eye screws that will not
puncture thru to you frame front.
is deep and art sits totally down into the frame.
some of the "Z" plates will work, just turn them down into the frame
instead on up on the canvas
b) small nail behind the art work into the frame side.
c) Use glazier points and push into the frame.
PAPERING THE BACK- done by most frame shops and it is more cosmetic than
practical. It supposedly keep out the dust,
yea right. Put glue around the frame and layover your paper and press it
into place and stretch as you press. Trim off any access paper before
the glue sets up. You can lightly mist the back of the paper and when it
dries it will tighten-up.
Canvas art should not have
papered back because it can cause excessive buildup of moisture and
cause rotting of the canvas. If you want the back covered, be sure to
cut at least 3 triangle slits "V" in the back and fold back the flaps on
the "V". Careful don't cut deep enough to cut the canvas or you will
have to take my repair canvas class.
ADDING HANGERS TO THE FRAME. lots of types of frames and lots of types
small items, the saw tooth strips fig3. are easy and now they have ones
with no nails to lose. I personally just don't like them. so I don't use
them. I often use the small mirror type hangers.
2) Eye screws, many sizes
3)Mirror hangers fig 4.. Metal strips with holes for screw (2 screw and
4 screw) Mirror hangers are great for heavy items. Lots of sizes.
They are intended to use with two hangers on the wall and should not
have a wire connecting the two hangers that are on the frame. This type
of hanger is not strong when a wire is added because the pressure is
sideways not straight up on the hanger.
HOWEVER, if you put the hangers on the back of the frame so that they
are not pointed up but at an angle to the center top of the frame, you
can add a wire because pressure is now in the correct direction for the
strength of the hanger.